Where to stay on Portugal's west coast: surf towns, calm bays and fishing villages
Between Ericeira and Nazaré are some of Europe's best waves — and also bays and lagoons with calm water. We compare 5 bases: who each one suits, honest pros and cons, and the beaches a few kilometres away.
Quick answer
Short answer: for surfing, Peniche/Baleal or Ericeira (the closest to Lisbon). With young children, São Martinho do Porto or Foz do Arelho, where the water is sheltered. To see the giant waves and stay in a lively town, Nazaré.
| Surfing | Peniche and Baleal or Ericeira — Supertubos, Baleal, Ribeira d’Ilhas |
|---|---|
| Families with young children | Nazaré and São Martinho or Foz do Arelho and Óbidos — São Martinho bay and the Óbidos lagoon |
| Close to Lisbon | Ericeira — about 32 km from the airport as the crow flies |
| Giant waves and a lively town | Nazaré and São Martinho — Praia do Norte in winter |
| Peace and long beaches | Santa Cruz and Lourinhã — less tourism, long beaches |
| Islands and boat trips | Peniche and Baleal — boats to the Berlengas |
Distances are straight-line, calculated from the coordinates in our beach database; by road they are longer. The “See hotels” and “Car hire” buttons are partner links: we may earn a commission at no cost to you — it doesn't change what we recommend.
How to choose: surf, calm bays or lively towns
Most of the west coast is open sea and waves, with three calm-water exceptions: São Martinho do Porto bay, the Óbidos lagoon at Foz do Arelho, and the sheltered beaches of Peniche, which sits on a peninsula with beaches facing different ways. Ericeira and Peniche are the surf capitals; Nazaré is the liveliest town; Santa Cruz the quietest.
Every base is within 100 km of Lisbon Airport as the crow flies, but transport between towns is limited — with a car you can stay in one base and visit the others. Each area has a button that opens an accommodation search for that area, with live prices and availability on our partner's site.
- 1Nazaré and São Martinho
- 2Foz do Arelho and Óbidos
- 3Peniche and Baleal
- 4Santa Cruz and Lourinhã
- 5Ericeira
Nazaré and São Martinho do Porto — giant waves and a calm bay
Nazaré has two faces: the town beach, a sweep of sand in a bay, and Praia do Norte, on the other side of the Sítio headland, famous for its giant winter waves. A funicular climbs up to the Sítio. About 11 km south, São Martinho do Porto sits in an almost enclosed, shell-shaped bay with calm water — one of the best beaches in the country for young children.
Pros
- A town that is alive all year, with fish restaurants and the Sítio viewpoint
- São Martinho bay with calm, “excellent” water (EEA 2025)
- The giant waves of Praia do Norte in winter
Cons
- Very busy in August and at weekends
- Praia do Norte is dangerous for swimming
- Far from the airport (about 92 km as the crow flies)
Nearest beach with a page on our site: Praia da Nazaré, about 0.4 km from the town centre as the crow flies · water quality: excellent (2025 season). A wide beach in a bay, in front of the town and sheltered by the Sítio headland.
Beaches near this area
Foz do Arelho and Óbidos — a calm lagoon, the sea and a medieval town nearby
At Foz do Arelho, the Óbidos lagoon meets the sea: on one side calm, shallow water, good for children and for learning to kitesurf and windsurf; on the other, the open-sea beach. The walled town of Óbidos is about 9 km away, and Bom Sucesso and Rei Cortiço, across the lagoon, have long beaches.
Pros
- A calm lagoon for children
- Óbidos and Caldas da Rainha a few kilometres away
- Beaches with “excellent” water (EEA 2025)
Cons
- A small village with limited choice and nightlife
- Often windy in the afternoon
- A car is almost essential
Nearest beach with a page on our site: Praia da Foz do Arelho, about 0.3 km from the village as the crow flies · water quality: excellent (2025 season). A beach at the mouth of the Óbidos lagoon, with the sea on one side and the lagoon on the other.
Beaches near this area
Peniche and Baleal — the surf capital, with beaches for every wind
Peniche sits on a peninsula, so it has beaches facing north and south: there is almost always one with waves and another more sheltered. Supertubos hosts a stop on the world surf tour, and Baleal, joined to the mainland by a sandy isthmus, has dozens of surf schools and camps. Boats to the Berlengas islands leave from the harbour.
Pros
- Surf for every level, all year round
- “Excellent” water at every beach we track (2025)
- The Berlengas a boat ride away
Cons
- The town itself has little charm
- Frequent wind and fog
- Busy with surf camps in summer
Nearest beach with a page on our site: Praia do Porto da Areia Sul, about 0.7 km from central Peniche as the crow flies · water quality: excellent (2025 season). A beach on the south side of the peninsula, by the harbour and town, sheltered from the north-westerly swell.
Beaches near this area
Santa Cruz and Lourinhã — long beaches and fewer tourists
Santa Cruz is Torres Vedras' beach: long stretches of sand between cliffs, the Guincho rock stack on the beach, surf and few foreign tourists. To the north are the Lourinhã beaches (Areia Branca, Peralta, Porto Dinheiro) and, to the south, Praia Azul and the Sizandro river mouth, both with adapted access.
Pros
- Long beaches with “excellent” water (EEA 2025)
- Less touristy than Ericeira and Peniche
- Beaches with step-free access (Praia Azul, Foz do Sizandro, Peralta)
Cons
- Little nightlife and a limited choice of restaurants
- Open, windy sea
- No train: a car is almost essential
Nearest beach with a page on our site: Praia de Santa Cruz, about 0.5 km from the village as the crow flies · water quality: excellent (2025 season). A long beach beside the village, between cliffs, with regular waves.
Beaches near this area
Ericeira — a World Surfing Reserve close to Lisbon
Ericeira is a fishing village of white-and-blue houses on the clifftop and, since 2011, a World Surfing Reserve — the first in Europe. Ribeira d’Ilhas, Coxos and São Lourenço are a few kilometres north; the town beaches are small. Mafra Palace is about 8 km away and Lisbon Airport about 32 km, as the crow flies.
Pros
- World-class waves and schools for beginners
- A pretty town with fish restaurants
- The surf base closest to Lisbon
Cons
- Small town beaches, with “good” water at Praia da Ericeira (2025)
- Very busy at weekends
- Cold sea and frequent fog
Nearest beach with a page on our site: Praia de Ericeira, about 0.2 km from the centre as the crow flies · water quality: good (2025 season). A small beach by the fishing harbour, in the centre of town.
Beaches near this area
Will you need a car?
In practice, yes: there are buses from Lisbon to Ericeira, Peniche and Nazaré, but the beaches and villages are spread out and transport between them is limited. Compare car hire at Lisbon Airport.
Recommended Next Steps
With your zone decided, here's where to go next:
- See West Coast beaches — browse beaches by zone with real-time conditions
- Surfing in Portugal guide — full editorial guide to surf spots, seasons and levels
- Beginner surf beaches Portugal — safe, accessible spots for first-timers
- Create your personalised itinerary — free planner with real-time beach conditions
- Search accommodation on the West Coast ↗ — full selection on Booking.com by area
- Compare car hire in Lisbon ↗ — the easiest way to get between beaches; compares prices across rental companies
- Book a Lisbon Airport transfer ↗ — not hiring a car? Shared shuttle or private driver to your base, at a fixed price (Shuttle Direct)
- Contact the editorial team — for specific questions about zone or timing
Ricardo Barbosa
Founder of Portal Turismo Portugal. Lives in Portimão and spent around two decades in luxury hospitality in Portugal and abroad, including Pine Cliffs Resort and Carvoeiro Clube Group. About the author
Where to stay on Portugal's west coast: FAQ
Both are excellent. Ericeira has been a World Surfing Reserve since 2011, is the prettier town and is about 32 km from Lisbon Airport. Peniche sits on a peninsula with beaches facing different ways, which almost always means waves somewhere and a sheltered beach too, and Baleal has plenty of beginner schools.
The sheltered ones: São Martinho do Porto bay and the Óbidos lagoon at Foz do Arelho. In Peniche, look for the beaches on the sheltered side of the peninsula on the day you go.
The big waves at Praia do Norte arrive with Atlantic storms, mostly between autumn and winter. You watch from the viewpoint by the São Miguel Arcanjo fort, at the Sítio. In summer the sea is usually much smaller.
As the crow flies, about 32 km from Ericeira, 45 km from Santa Cruz, 68 km from Peniche, 73 km from Foz do Arelho and 92 km from Nazaré; road distances are longer.
Zone decided? Your itinerary takes under 2 minutes.
With your base chosen, Portal Turismo Portugal builds the full itinerary — beaches by real conditions, profile-based suggestions and distances. Free, no account needed.
Zone chosen — now plan how to get the most from it
Real-time beach conditions, surf forecasts and a personalised itinerary in minutes — free, no account needed.